One last post, two final photographs that capture the essence of Capraia's Round Britain Challenge and some final reflections.

One of the most exhilarating sails was from Arbroth to Eyemouth.  We awoke to a miserable rainy morning with little wind and limited visibility - getting going in the early morning to catch the lock gates, with the noise of the rain on the cabin roof, was a challenge in itself!  By mid afternoon Capraia was romping along in 25 knots of wind doing 8.5 knots despite her shortened sail.  A reluctant start had turned into one of the best sails yet.  So often on this trip unexpected changes have surprised, delighted.....and even scared or horrified us! 

As we neared Eyemouth we were approached by a local fishing boat, the crew of which took this photograph.  That evening, tied up alongside in Eyemouth Harbour, the young man who had taken the photograph found Capraia and came aboard.  A generous and spontaneous act which thrilled us since we so seldom get decent shots of our own boat in open water - especially in conditions like these.

A few weeks later, and over 300 miles further South, we were approaching Southwold in very different conditions when Edgar and Elsa from Windbreker took this photograph in the shimmering heat of a perfect summer's day.  Later that day they invited me aboard their home and gave a slide show of Capraia's approach to the harbour.  This lovely couple gave much to the Round Britain Challenge in camaraderie, humour, song, knowledge and expertise.  They, and the other crew from the fleet of eight Dutch boats that completed the Challenge, gave us so much and asked for nothing in return.

My overriding emotion now that it's all over is a feeling of immense gratitude.  Gratitude for having had the opportunity to take part in this adventure - 3 ½ months away from home is a big 'ask'!  Grateful to my 13 crew who travelled, some from Switzerland and France, to join me and Capraia for various stages around our coast. Grateful to those we met on our travels who welcomed us and offered assistance, whether it was taking our lines or providing invaluable local knowledge.  Finally thanks to family and friends who have followed my progress and provided encouragement and support.  It has been a truly fantastic adventure.

For the final leg it's just me and Capraia, not even any wind!  Getting the timing right for favourable tides around Land's End and making it in time for Padstow's lock gate requires some careful calculation and a need to maintain a decent boat speed!

Passing inside the prominent Longships lighthouse, we take the inshore passage to make the most of the tide and save some time.  Past Cape Cornwall’s rugged coastline festooned with ruined chimneys and pumping houses giving evidence of the extensive mining operations that reached out far beneath the sea bed. As the coast followed a north easterly direction we make a bee-line for Trevose Head, Stepper Point and the Camel Estuary beyond. 

We just made it in time to get into the harbour before the lock gates closed.  My lines were taken by the berthing master who fondly remembered my father who was a Harbour Commissioner here.  Padstow is such an appropriate place for my last port of call - this estuary has always been my second home.

 

 

 After a couple of days of visiting favourate haunts and seeing family and friends we left Padstow for Milford Haven last Wednesday.  Again no wind so a long and rather tedious motor for 14 hours with only the dolphins for company. 

  

 

We anchored off Dale for the night, where the adventure started 16 weeks and 2020 miles ago.  In the cold and misty morning that marks the end of a summer adventure and the start of autumn we made our way up the Cleddau River to Pembroke Dock. 

 

By late afternoon Capraia is on her winter 'mooring'.  Apart from the starter motor that we replaced in Holyhead, a broken wooden cleat and some healthy wear and tear, she is in perfect health and ready, like me, for a rest!

This isn't my final post.  I will do a 'postscript' next weekend when I have had time to reflect on this adventure.

 

 

Brighton to Newlyn has been rather different to the journey so far.  We have had highs and low (metrological and emotional), three crew changes, chance meetings and, as we near the end of this Round Britain Challenge, a feeling for the first time of looking forward to the end.  Maybe that’s because of the 20 boats that started this Challenge, Capraia and Minstrel (also from Milford Haven) are the only two who haven’t finished - despite the celebrations at Cowes marking the ‘official’ end of the adventure.

In Brighton Sarah joined us, bringing racing experise for the Cowes' weekend  and an enviable network of family and friends on the south coast!

We waited in vain for the wind to change direction but in the end battled our way to Portsmouth against a strong and unrelenting head wind reaching our destination 14 hours later!  It's times like these that question our loyalty to a gaff rig!  A least we had the benefit of the Lyrid Meteor Shower as darkness fell and, having arrived in the early hours, we qualified as a 'short stay' visitor at the expensive Haslar Marina - bargain!

The next two days were spent in and around the Solent with a sunny day anchored off East Head in Chichester Harbour where two south coast gaffers were cleaning their bottoms - no doubt in preparation for Saturday's race! - we walked to West Wittering in search of an ice cream!  We arrived at Cowes Yacht Haven in good time to find a berth near friends and to avoid the mayhem of 250 gaffers squeezing their way into every available space.

The OGA Jubilee Celebrations in Cowes, which consisted of three days of events, racing, parties and competitions, was extremely well organised and hats off to the OGA South Coast Committee.  It was a special and unique event but somehow the special camaraderie that had been built up over the months amongst the Round Britain boats was watered down by the formality of the weekend.  We had an emotional farewell on Sunday morning with some final songs from David, (from Syene) and Else (from Windbreker) pictured here at Friday’s party.  Two talented musicians who, with others, captured the spirit of this summer through spontaneous and unforgettable song and music.

As the gaffers dispersed we bid farewell to Sarah and welcomed back Rose and Tamsin for the next leg back to the West Country.  It’s a shame, but I suppose inevitable that the friendliest, most helpful and welcoming receptions that we have received around our coast have been from the least populated areas where people arriving by boat are still regarded as seafarers seeking a safe haven rather than a commodity to boost profit.  It’s a relief to be leaving the South Coast.  We have a brief stopover in a crowded anchorage in Poole Harbour where friends Tom and Sarah come on board for a rowdy supper and we discover that people are drilling for oil nearby! 

The next day it's past Old Harry and Harry’s Wife where our own on-board Geography teacher is able to pass on some knowledge!

 
We have a night in Weymouth to drop off Tamsin, and around a tranquil Portland Bill to Dartmouth where Rose also has to leave to return home.

In Dartmouth we anchor opposite Darthaven Marina, where we bought Capraia in 2009, in the midst of the busy waterborne traffic working its way up, down and across the Dart.  A favourite was the last remaining coal fired  paddle steamer, the Kingswear Castle, built on the Dart in 1924 but spent 47 years operating out of Cowes and Chatham before returning to the Dart this year. 

With a new crew, cousins Peter and Tristan, we are off to Newton Ferres for a brief stopover keen to leave the crowds.  The next day we have a Force 6 in the forecast but with two fresh and competent crew we leave for an exhilarating sail and a chance for Capraia to gather her skirts once again as we lay a course for Polperro. Cornwall at last!

  

 

 

The next day we have an excellent sail to St Mawes arriving early enough to enjoy a swim off the boat in glorious sunshine and then a run ashore for even more glorious Fish 'n Chips washed down with Betty Stogs of course!

 

 

The next morning we cross over to Falmouth - for a shower at the welcoming Royal Cornwall Yacht Club, crab sandwiches for lunch and an afternoon in the Maritime Museum.  In the late afternoon we venture up the Fal to Malpas and anchor in complete and welcome stillness and silence.

We set off early on the ebb and make the short passage to the Helford river where we anchored off Polgwidden Cove near Trebah which has a garden described as the ‘Garden of Dreams’ – a steeply wooded ravine full of tree ferns, waterfalls, and rhododendrons leading down to the beach.  We were surprised to come across a memorial for members of the 29th US Infantry Division who died in the D-Day landings.  7500 men embarked from Polgwidden Cove - incredible given the size of this small cove.

 

Next stop Coverack where we walked to Black Head and encounter the Terence Coventry Sculpture Park, my favourite of was 'Jackdaws on a Chimney' which reminded me of home!

 



 

Our last stop before the Lizard is Church Cove, which used to be the base for a prosperous pilchard fishery.  The old lifeboat house was built facing across the slip so that the boat had to be turned through 90 degrees before being launched.  For our family crew it's the church, St Wynwallows Church, Landwednack that is of particular interest being the resting place of several ancestors and with strong family ties.  In Church Cove we were offered hospitality from a couple staying in the cottage opposite the old slipway.  After a few minutes chat we discovered that we both worked for the same organization many years ago and had numerous shared acquaintances - a small world indeed!



 

 

After a full day at Church Cove (which also included witnessing the launch of the Lizard Lifeboat to attend the stricken French Trawler Scuderia), we rounded the Lizard Peninsular and enjoyed a gentle evening sail.  Once again we enjoyed a mackerel supper before arriving after dark in Newlyn Harbour.

In Newlyn it's thank you and farewell to Peter and Tristan as they head back to Lac Leman - it's been a great week. 

 



 

I have a couple of days in Newlyn waiting for a favourable tide and a decent forecast before embarking single-handed on the final leg around Land's End to Milford Haven via Padstow.