As we prepared to leave Bridlington last Monday evening, a menacing bank of sea fog drifted in and we began to doubt the wisdom of a night passage to the north Norfolk coast; but the prospect of another night leaning against the harbour wall in this particular Yorkshire resort tipped the balance! 

As we headed southwards, hugging the coast to avoid any shipping, the visibility quickly improved and we were treated to yet another clear night.  Spaghetti bolognaise was served at sunset and thereafter skipper and new crew, Grahame and John, adopted a two on, one off watch system with military-like discipline and fortitude!

 

The dawn bought news of a sea-sick ship mate who had succumbed to the uneasy motion during the night.  As you might imagine he received the sympathy afforded to a comrade in arms and was allowed extra time in his bunk to recover his strength for his foredeck duties!

 

 

We were soon in amongst numerous wind farms lying idle in the still air.  As we wove our way through the navigational minefields of shallow waters and rank upon rank of parading windmills the crew discussed the merits of these environmentally 'friendly' monsters. The conversation would continue further south as we encountered another source of energy!

 

By mid-morning we realised that we would be too late to have enough water to get into Wells-next-the-Sea on the north Norfolk coast, so we decided to press on to Great Yarmouth, a busy port with 24 hour access.  As we approached and checked in with a friendly Harbourmaster on the VHF, his only request was that we had a quiet night!  After our 28 hour sail (motor mostly!), this is just what we wanted!  Breakfast was interrupted by the arrival of the Cromer Lifeboat with a yacht that had run out of fuel.  We helped to secure the yacht alongside the harbour wall then hailed the Coxwain with a request for a signature!

 

 

It wasn't long before the chat turned again to energy, 'green' or otherwise, prompted by the passing of Sizewell (the only operational pressurised water reactor in the UK).  Our on board nuclear specialist gave us the raw facts which further fuelled the debate on wind v nuclear. 

 

 

 

On to Southwold in Suffolk, a pretty town built around its lighthouse and home of Adnams Brewery.  The beautiful day and the picture postcard sea front almost made us feel as if we were on holiday!

 



 

 

The River Blyth is about a mile south of the town and is equally picturesque with its fishing wharf, boat sheds, huts and yards.  We bought fresh plaice and dined on board tied up to Mr Adnam's pontoon - perfect!

 

 

The next day we headed off to the River Deben with its tricky sand bars guarding the entrance.  To the south is Felixstowe Ferry (which we got to know quite well) and to the north Bawdsey with its prominent Manor.  Now privately owned, Bawdsey Manor was a top secret research establishment where the MOD developed radar technology in the 1930s and housed a radar station in WW2.

 

We picked up a mooring at Ramsholt where payment is in the form of a £5 donation to the RNLI. Dues are collected by a man in a small boat who has lived here for 80+ years!  (We should have hired him as a pilot).  This mooring was particularly well placed to sample some of Mr Adnams beer in the Ramsholt Arms which I last visited over 30 years ago.

We slipped our mooring early to reach Woodbridge Marina at the top of the tide to cross the sill with sufficient depth for Capraia's 1.6 metre draught. 

 

The marina is located in what was once the tide ponds for Woodbridge's Tide Mill.  The records show that there was a tide mill on this site in 1170. It was owned by the Augustinian Priors for around 350 years until Henry VIII confiscated it, and for the next 28 years it was in royal ownership. Elizabeth I sold it to Thomas Seckford whose family owned it for over 100 years, followed by several private owners. In 1793 the present mill was built on the site of earlier ones. By the 1950s it had become the last working tide mill in the country, but in 1957 it finally closed. It was saved in 1968, restored and opened to the public in 1973. Recently, further protection and restoration work has brought it back into use as a fully working tide mill and fascinating museum.

 

The next day promised to be perfect - bright sunshine and a brisk wind - so sails up and decision made to sail, rather than motor, down the River Deben to the open sea.  What happened next, three quarters of the way down the river, is obvious from the photograph..........

 

No damage, only injured pride as we watched the yachts sailing past, most decent enough to look the other way and certainly no waving!  We can vouch for the lovely walk along the west bank of the Deben, the excellent Fish 'n Chips (and Adnams) at the Ferry Boat Inn, the ice cream at the Ferry Café, the flora and fauna, the tranquillity, the clouds.................

 

We had a sweepstake as to what time we would float and the level of optimism was encouraging - less so was an admission from the helm at the time of the incident that this wasn't the first time he had run aground but since the 'boat' was submerged waiting for the tide was not an issue!  We eventually re-floated at 8.30pm and gingerly headed off for the River Orwell.

 



 

The busy port of Felixstowe kept us on our toes as we made our way up river to pick up a mooring off Levington before heading on to Ipswich on Saturday morning.  Here Grahame and John caught the train back to Yorkshire - thank you both for your humour and tolerance (sorry about the wasted day!).

 

Soon Capraia was engulfed by gaffers aplenty as the Round Britain Fleet were joined by about 50 local OGA members for a week of racing and socialising. 



 

 

 The skipper has returned home to Wales for a week whilst Capraia enjoys being upright!



The magnificent coast of Northumberland, Durham and Yorkshire have been a surprise.  We expected a constant reminder of the region's industrial past and present, and we got that, but what was unexpected was the raw beauty of the coastline and the small harbours.   Add to that the great sense of humour of those that we have met, and the fantastic weather, and there is no doubt that yet again the real value of this trip has been highlighted.

The crew for this part of our adventure have included two Yorkshiremen who have provided an abundance of invaluable local knowledge!  I am sure that without their encouragement and local knowledge we would not have ventured into some of the harbours visited nor would we have enjoyed the rich commentary that has filled the hours between stopovers!

Having left Eyemouth with Charles we headed for the Farne Islands, passing close to Lisdisfarne.  The glorious conditions encouraged us to spend a night at anchor in the 'kettle' at Inner Farne, a small anchorage within a circle of low lying rocks which would have afforded little shelter had the wind been any stronger than forecast.  This tranquil and isolated place was subjected to the constant barrage of noise from the roosting sea birds seen at its best in a glorious sunset.

Another lovely day as we head south to Craster, the small harbour originally built for the shipping of local whinstone and made famous for its Kippers.  The smokehouse is still operating but the herring are now imported from Norway.

The thought of kippers on board caused some concern so we opted for a picnic of kipper pate and locally baked bread - fantastic.  Our destination for the night was Amble, a large but unspoilt harbour with a small, friendly marina. The entrance to the harbour is guarded by Croquet Island. an RSPB seabird sanctuary.  We have been a little disappointed not to have seen more sea mammals but the constant company of Puffins, Guillemots and Gannets has been impressive.   

Next day (Sunday) we head for Newcastle to meet up with the rest of the OGA fleet who have been partying all weekend - hopefully we haven't missed all the fun.  We get there too late to go through the Millennium Bridge so moor up just downstream.  Here we say farewell and thank you to Charles who has left his legacy on board - a new knot called a Yeoline!

Being Sunday the Newcastle nightlife was thankfully fairly subdued but the night lights were something else - providing a perfect backdrop to the Gaffers' party.

As this spectacular bridge opened its jaws for the gaffers the next morning, we were joined by our new crew, Paul who came armed with a delicious casserole and homemade marmalade (future crew please take note!).

The two hour trip down the River Tyne was no less interesting than the previous afternoon with its abundance of wharfs, docks, works and housing, all providing stark evidence of the life blood that has flowed up and down this river for Centuries.   We are off to Seaham, Co Durham, where we find three of the Dutch gaffers in the brand new marina there.

Lord Londonderry built this harbour in 1828 to ship coal from his mines - he was displeased at the dues being charged in the Port of Sunderland so built his own facility! The chutes for loading coal from the rail wagons into the waiting ships are still evident.  This ambitious feat of engineering had no natural inlet or bay to develop but instead took shape with a series of breakwaters and harbours to give protection from the North Sea and provide shelter for the loading of vessels.

 

The next morning, glorious again, we set off with Raven...

 





 

The conditions and speed were ideal for the mackerel lines and keen to try out the new hooks purchased in Eyemouth, we went to work. It wasn't long before we had caught 10 fish with 8 on one line!  Guess what we are having for supper (thank goodness we managed to get some parsley!). 

 

Our next harbour, Staithes, is a favourite for artists (if not for yachtsmen who can't take the bottom at low tide!) and a walk ashore revealed the true beauty of this Yorkshire harbour with its fishermen's cottages, traditional cobles and Roxby Beck running to the sea.

 

 

 

  

Up early to get away whilst we are floating!  An unusually dull, cold day as we make our way under power to Whitby - not easy to miss with its narrow but prominent harbour entrance.

 

 

 

 The place where Captain Cook started his life, Goths gather in the ruined Abbey and Fish and Chips are par excellence - Whitby is full of maritime history, buzzing with adventure and intrigue.  We spent a couple of days here (not enough) before heading south again early on Friday morning.

 

 

One night at anchor off Filey, tucked in behind the unusual Filey Brigg, a natural breakwater of rock extending eastwards from the resort of Butlins fame!  We left before the sun rose and passed the chalk cliffs of Flamborough Head.

 

 

 

We aimed to get to Grimsby for the next Gaffer gathering this weekend but have got as far as Bridlington where we are dried out against the harbour wall awaiting new crew who arrive tomorrow.  Thank you Paul for sailing with Capraia along your home shore and for such an insight into this part of the Yorkshire Coast.